Santa Margherita Ligure
Whilst staying in Lavagna, my next stop along the Italian Riviera would be the neighbouring town of Santa Margherita Ligure, just a 15 minute train journey away. You could also fly into Genoa airport from abroad (I flew into Bergamo and got the train to Genoa before heading to SML).
The train station's full name is Santa Margherita Ligure -Portofino, as it is the closest station for access to Portofino which is not situated on the Trainline. You have to take a quick bus from SML to Portofino (more on that after).
When I got off the train in the late morning sun to see the view in the photo above, I actually gasped at how beautiful it was. There is nothing like the first glimpse of the bright blue of the sea. Santa Margherita Ligure looks just like a vintage postcard.
It is a smooth walk downhill in the shade towards the town centre and waterfront where a pebbly/rocky beach awaits you but this adds to the rugged, rustic charm of the Ligurian coastline. The beauty of the beach is in the vast sea and the pretty, ornate buildings lining the waterfront.
People were laid out on the big rocks on their towels while others dipped a toe in the water while little yachts sailed by, cruise ships passing in the distance.
The weather was idyllic- 27 degrees with a soft sea breeze. It meant that taking a passeggiata along the promenade was pleasant (apart from my new sandals giving me some grief when they'd seemed so comfortable at first try..).
Like many beach towns, there is not a lot in particular to report on but Santa Margherita Ligure (and Portofino) are all about being there: the views, the vibes, the sea air and as with anywhere in Italy, the food and drink.
After a long walk, I ducked into a bar to charge my phone. I wanted to sit outside but needed a plug socket. Only once indoors and sat down did I realise how hot the afternoon now felt despite still not quite reaching 30 degrees, and I wanted a refreshing drink but didn't fancy an Aperol (I love it but sometimes it can taste a bit too bitter/sticky).
I then saw a little advert for P31 Green Aperitivo and asked the bar tender what it tasted like 'basil', he said, not surprisingly given we were in Liguria. I took a chance and ordered a Green Spritz and wondered if I would be wasting 8 euros but it was actually so refreshing and unique, I have since been searching online for where I can order a bottle of P31 from to my home in the UK for this summer but so far to no avail...
It's just so pretty too!
After my phone was fully charged, I headed back over to the beach and found a comfortable rock (yes, really!) and laid in the sun for an hour. Something I really enjoyed about my time wandering Liguria was how peaceful it is; maybe it was the time of year and it could be a whole difference scenario in July/August, but I appreciated being able to be on a beach or in a bar or walking around and hear the sounds of nature and people talking quietly, laughter, civilised behaviour... maybe it's a sign I'm getting older or a sign of my high sensitivity, but when I'm not in work, I do like to spend my time in peace, and that's what I remember most about my time in Liguria (along with the sunsets and swimming in the sea!).
With regards to solo female travel, you can never be too naive and I have encountered some harassment in the past; I will always scan my surroundings and double check I have my phone and keys and look over my shoulder when walking somewhere in the dark, however, with normal precautions considered, I felt safety entire time I was in Liguria, especially Santa Margherita Ligure. There were no weirdos, nobody getting too close, no pestering, no unsolicited comments.
SML feels upmarket but is not expensive- save your money for Portofino! In SML, you get the best of both worlds: world-class, stunning views but food and drink are all affordable and drinks often come with snacks anyway so sometimes you don't even need to order food.
To be honest, it is so beautiful here, this could just be a photo blog with no words needed.
A great place that captures the feeling with brilliant views is at Le Vernissage Bar, which you can find just slightly uphill off the promenade at Salita al Castello. It opens at 6pm and I would advise heading there just beforehand to get a seat and/or table outside to have an aperitif with that view. I got there around 18:05 and was lucky to get a stool and a little table (one perk of solo travel- sometimes when places seem full, you often get that little window seat or place at the bar where you wouldn't in a group!). I ordered a glass of Vermentino from Portofino, just 10 minutes away up the road. I'd be there soon.
Look.at.that.
An hour spent perched up there with a crisp white wine from Portofino, crisps, mini focaccia, mini pizza.. and that view, all for 10 euros.
I had decided to hold off on visiting Portofino until early evening to avoid the crowds and I'd recommend this to anyone.
You catch the 782 bus from the bus stops along the SML waterfront and you can tap your contactless debit card on the machines on board. You do the same on the way back and I think it costs around 5 euros in total. The journey takes 16 minutes and I was lucky on the way there as there were only five of us on the bus so got a seat to look out at the beautiful coastal, uphill views.
Portofino
Portofino looks like an oil painting, a 1950s postcard, or a daydream.
It is a pastel-coloured tiny village set in a cove which was formerly a sleepy fishing village before it became the holiday destination of Hollywood stars such as Elizabeth Taylor and Sophia Loren.
Glamour is in the air even when it is quiet in the evening. This isn't a place for exclusive, showy parties but luxury is everywhere from the high-end designer boutiques to floating restaurants with menus that don't list prices.
Unless you are for splashing the cash, you won't do without if you eat in Santa Margherita Ligure before or after your visit to Portofino, and to be honest, you only need an hour or two to walk around and understand the vibe before heading back to the larger town of SML.
Dalida's 1959 song, 'I Found My Love in Portofino', played on my mental jukebox as I walked down the cobbled streets to the harbour.
Yes, it's pricey, but it is not ostentatious as some other upmarket places can be.. Portofino is no Marbella.
I walked from one end to the other, stopping to sit on benches or at the water's edge (to take in the view but also because my sandals were still irritating my heels..).
Again, as was the common theme throughout the trip, it was very peaceful and tranquil all around. I half-expected Portofino to be a selfie-stick nightmare but it wasn't; there were, of course, some people getting photos with the backdrop but nothing obstructive or annoying.
For a while, I just sat down and took in the colours and the sounds- seabirds and boats rocking, the tinkle of cutlery on plates and clinking of glass at the restaurants nearby.
It was a treat for the senses but I was missing Santa Margherita so walked back to the bus stop where we all had to wait over an hour for the 782 to come despite the fact they're meant to come every 15 minutes (even in the early evening). It was a crowded bus on the way back; I would have called a taxi given all of this if I'd have know it'd be delayed and so cramped.
When I arrived back in SML some 15 minutes later, there was yet another treat of a view waiting: the waterfront illuminated in the dark.
Sigh. How gorgeous.
I lingered around for a while taking various photos of this then eventually gave in and walked back to the train station for my 15-minute train back to Lavagna.
There are some places you feel so lucky to see and they always stay with you. I have been home just over a week and a part of me is still there. I am sure I will return some day, what a beautiful, relaxed, peaceful, naturally beautiful corner of the continent.
Any questions, please leave them in the comments below or indeed please share with me your experiences and recommendations of Santa Margherita Ligure and Rapallo!
Laura x
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