One Day and Night in Gjirokastër, the UNESCO Heritage Albanian City of Stone

The bus journey from Sarandë

I travelled through Albania solo in August 2026 via public transport.

After three nights on the Albanian Riviera of Sarandë and Ksamil, I made my way slightly northwards (by an hour) to the city of Gjirokastër.

The bus from Sarandë station to Gjirokastër took just over an hour and cost 6 euros, or 600LEK.

Use the Girafa Travel website for your national bus journeys but remember that buses won't always leave at the precise place or minute stated online!

I have a long-standing fear of being on buses that veer close to cliff edges following a holiday in Cyprus when I was 21 which left me with recurring nightmares where we go over. The silly thing is that these drivers make this journey numerous times per week and don't sweat it at all, familiar as they are with the route and the terrain, but it is hard to join up the rational part of the brain and the nervous system at times. 

The drive from Sarandë to Gjirokastër was generally fine but I did white knuckle some bends whilst keeping a hawk-eye on the driver who seemed absolutely non-plussed. I was probably over-compensating but still, it's not a journey I would like to repeat. Many people would be totally unperturbed but if you are nervous with bends and high cliff edges, maybe consider a different journey.

Where is Gjirokastër and why should you visit?

I am going to cut to the chase and state now that Gjirokastër was my favourite part of my whole trip and I wished I had booked two nights rather than one. 

Gjirokastër translates from Albanian as 'City of Stone' and it was formally recognised in 2005 by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site.

Cobblestone streets of Gjirokastër

Like Sarandë, Gjirokastër is very hilly so bring your trainers/walking shoes!

I stayed in a beautiful little apartment just a few minutes walk from the city centre and it was ideal as a solo traveller. The room came with a mini fridge and very comfortable bed but best of all was the view over the city which was mesmerising at night. The host was so lovely, so I want to leave a link to her property here: View City Apartments, Gjirokastër. 

I paid the princely sum of £21 for the night (had to leave cash in LEK in the room for the host upon arrival) for this fantastic apartment and that view.

About Gjirokastër

Gjirokastër is blessed with stunning views thanks to its situation in a valley between the Gjerë mountains and the Drino river. 

The city has been ruled by numerous empires such as the Ancient Greeks, the Romans, the Byzantines, and the Ottomans and numerous other European occupations, all lending different essences to the city's architecture, cuisine, and wider culture. It is also the birthplace of former Albanian Communist leader Enver Hoxha who ruled from 1944 to 1985.

Gjirokastër Old Town

The Old Town is beautiful and so interesting to take in as you walk round the various streets filled with numerous bars, pubs, restaurants, market stalls, and viewing points.

Expect to see souvenirs laid out in baskets outside the stalls from tapestries to bookmarks, to raki and a whole lot more.

The first thing I did when I reached the Old Town was a stone grinding coffee experience which I had booked here on Get Your Guide. This was fantastic value, costing just £12 for the hour-long experience which took place out in the street outside an artisan centre by a lovely woman called Lubijana.

Despite it being peak season in August and the main streets near the bars and market stalls being fairly crowded, there was only one other person booked on, a lovely woman from Canada.

We sat on the bench in the street by an open fire and were given a welcome gift of homemade fig jam (divine!), Albanian coffee, and raki. 

Lubijana talked us through the history of this traditional Albanian method of grinding coffee with stone.

She told us that the coffee origins came from the Ottomans, and women had been grinding the coffee this way with stone since the 16th century and is a part of a rich cultural heritage they are trying to preserve through teaching and awareness so it does not become lost to modern commercial fast coffee methods. As it is a time-consuming procedure, the rise of home coffee makers and fast coffee servings at bars means younger people are not engaging with this method and style of coffee.

Women would sit together out in the street, patios or courtyards, roasting the coffee beans over an open fire then grinding them in stone (something that looks a bit like a giant mortar & pestle) for hours while they talked; it was as much a time to socialise and chat together as women away from husbands, children, and domestic labour as it was an endeavour resulting in amazing coffee. 

The coffee itself is very rich in flavour, colour, and texture, almost like the consistency at the end of a hot chocolate. I was expecting it to be like rocket fuel but it was surprisingly smooth and it didn't give me the caffeine jitters.

Lubiana let us both have a go at grinding the coffee with the stone which was heavy as you would expect- these women must have very strong arms from doing this for many years! Onlookers gathered in the street, curious as to the fire, the smells, and the demonstration taking place. 

Afterwards, I walked on further into the Old Town. Picture winding streets that slope upwards and downwards, cobblestones, and buildings of brick and stone.

It was overcast at first then the sky gave way to quite a spectacular 'golden hour' which then really brought out the city's beauty.

Golden Hour means time for an aperitivo and a sit down, especially after all that travelling and walking (I was still shattered from dragging my suitcases round Sarandë in the blazing sun that morning).

I walked in the direction of Gjirokastër Castle then stopped when I found a quiet restaurant with a gorgeous view over the valley.

This small dish originating from Gjirokastër is called Qifqi- something not too far removed from Italian arancini but rather than being filled with meat and ragù, they are flavoured with mint and kept simple. It's a great choice for vegetarians and only cost around £3!

Afterwards, I went for a wander and took some photos at viewing points along the way:

I rounded off the evening at Alsara Rooftop Cocktail Bar which has the most spectacular views; I highly recommend:

When I returned to my apartment, tired from a long day of travel but floating on the feeling of all the beautiful sights I'd had the privilege of seeing, there was one more surprise waiting: the view over the city from my balcony.